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Paris dances on the Seine in summer and in salons cubains all winter. The shift is dramatic — June through September the open-air floor at Quai Saint-Bernard's Tino Rossi gardens runs nightly, free, with hundreds of dancers along the river; October through May, everyone moves indoors to the salons that have kept the Cuban son-and-casino tradition alive in Paris since the 1990s.

The Latin Quarter and the riverside hold the summer scene — Quai Saint-Bernard most warm evenings, plus Bastille and Bercy weekly socials. Winter pushes the salsa cubana crowd into the salons of the 11th and 20th arrondissements. Bachata sensual and kizomba have their own circuits in République and the inner suburbs. Paris values the slow basic and the musical pause more than the turn pattern — the city dances on the music, not over it.

Quai Saint-Bernard is open and free; if you're in town between June and September, that's where you should go first. Bring water and a change of shirt — the riverside floor gets warm fast on a July night.